Posts tagged Scotland
A Covid summer 2020

With the global pandemic taking hold across the world we have all taken the opportunity to discover aspects of our lives which we may give little or no attention. Lockdown’s aplenty have meant our ‘normal’ has been disrupted, sometimes for good and sometime for a depressing out look.

My previous post was in March as I took the opportunity to branch away from the confinement of my computer and enjoy the lockdown restrictions as well as I could. With a few months off work I was still eager to get out into the hills, climb and explore so when the ‘green lights’ were given we did exactly that. I think I recreated my child hood! For two months we lived quietly and simply, volunteered in the village, bike rides and swimming. The most painful task was cancelling and refunding all the upcoming booked work. Fortunately as the pandemic too its toll, restrictions were lifted and I was able to return to work where I made use of the local hills and crags. I had guided trips into the Cairngorm, Ben Nevis, the North West Highlands and the Cairngorms. Several guests we concerned about their fitness from the break they have had, however slowly and surely, confidence grew and everyone forgets about their fitness worries. They are not alone, I’m sure we have all been concerned about our fitness but rest assured, we can still have really good day in the mountains whatever fitness you may be. We just maybe have to build back up to that ‘big’ objective.

My alpine summer was dramatically ‘thinned out’ as many were unable to travel so I had only 2 weeks of very nice work. Firstly I climbed with the every enthusiastic Alan Watson who specifically wished to rock climb with only short approaches. Being based in Chamonix we climbed so many amazing routes up to 6a standard. These were mostly bolted routes but we have agreed that we will come back for more trad route this coming summer. Following on from Alan I teamed up with Anthony. Also very keen and very objectively driven by the Matterhorn. We had the hut booked and embarked on our training climbs in the Aiguille Rouge above Chamonix and one night from the Torino hut traversing some of the granite ridges. All perfect preparation for the Matterhorn however it was looking clear that the Matterhorn may be a little ambitious for Anthony on this trip. We would need perfect conditions. As Anthony was so driven by this mountain, maybe a little too driven, we pressed on and unfortunately we didn’t have the perfect conditions. We made it too the Solvay hut but had to return just below the shoulder due too high winds and Anthony’s condition deteriorating. The only option was to turn back. I believe this was a very eye opening experience for Anthony and the mountain told him a lot about himself despite his guide telling him before hand.

After these 3 weeks in the Alps I returned back to Scotland to a reduced work load however I guided and climbed personally on Isle of Skye, Isle of Lewis and Harris, the Cairngorms and on the East coast sea cliffs. Again the confinements of Covid started to take hold which brought more cancellations and the unknowns of the future but fortunately we had the task of moving to the Alps to keep us occupied.

Moving to the Alps in November was fairly stressful, moving to France in the middle of the pandemic and on the eve of Brexit caused a major headache (and still is) but now we are settled here. Regretfully none of my clients have been able to travel to the Alps so I have been working at St Georges International School leading the holiday camps. The boarding students who cannot return home because of Covid spend their holidays doing a whole host of activities such as skiing, ice skating, paragliding, go-carting, rock climbing, sledding to name a few. A different pace of life but great to share these experiences with young people and see them develop.

Our new home

Our new home

I have a very busy summer booked and I really hope we can all enjoy it together.

Stay safe and see you all soon!

Scottish ski touring (and a little bit of mountaineering)

With COVID-19 taking quite a hold across Asia and into Europe, my first ski touring trip in the Alps was starting to look doubtful. We were due to go to the Queyras, an area we hadn’t been to before. I spent weeks planning this trip but the plan was suddenly slipping through our fingers. I was in the Lake District, visiting family before jumping on the ferry for 7 weeks of ski touring. From Cumbria, I decided to make the call that we wouldn’t go to the Alps. I proposed a week of skiing in the Highlands. Given that 2 members of the 4 strong team had already dropped out, they were happy to rejoin for a Scottish adventure.

So after lots of cancellations, re-booking of accomodation and arriving in Scotland, we donned our ski’s and headed out in 50mph winds to kick start our Scottish ski week. We agreed to be flexible with activities and fortunately everyone was keen for a little mountaineering as well as skiing.

Our first day we went into the Cairngorm’s and skied Lurcher’s Gully which was a very fitting objective due to the weather conditions. No-one saw the benefit in prolonging the day.

As the weather continued to blow, we opted for the East Ridge of Beinn Choraine. A good option in the strong westerlies and very suitable for the group as some do no mountaineering or have lapsed for 20 years. We divided into two rope teams and made a fun ascent before hitting the whiteout which required careful navigation to get back down. It was a tough days for the hardened skier, they may be converted…or maybe not!

Finally we were blessed with some slightly more settled weather and we did the Corries loop skirting around all the northern corries and around the south side of Cairngorm. A windy day but rewarding as we pushed through some tough gusts and icey traverses.

The last day was surely the best, great weather and a superb journey on to Breariach. A good Munro to bag on ski’s. A fun and challenging consolation to skiing in the Alps but we are already looking forward to doing the trip next year. Thanks for a great week team! Working for Frost Guiding.

Skiing or climbing? Which one do you prefer?
Last year snow problems

Last year snow problems

Due to a client unable to drive in the deep drifting snow, we have postponed our days climbing today. It’s too late to find a partner so instead the kettle is on and I’ll be having a day at home! Maybe a good idea as it has been non-stop in the last wee while!

Fresh tracks on the Vallee Blanche last week

Fresh tracks on the Vallee Blanche last week

This time of year does beg the question, climbing or skiing. I have been fortunate to do both in the last month. Climbing in Scotland and skiing in the Alps.

It has been a slow start to the winter, it came, it went, it went cold, went warm. it thawed and froze…and so on. However, today, Tuesday 22nd January it feels like winter is here to stay for a while. Currently having substantial snowfall on the West Coast where the East is slightly nicer with less snow. The mixed climbing conditions are very good at the moment, the ice routes need a little more work.

Louisa keeping warm on Swan Song V,6, Cairngorms.

Louisa keeping warm on Swan Song V,6, Cairngorms.

Last week I was in Chamonix for 10 days skiing with friend and with clients. We had great conditions, I was fortunate as it snowed as I landed in Geneva and gave plenty of good powder skiing. As time went on, the snow was topped up almost every other day meaning we found great powder in the resorts and well away from the piste. We were fortunate to ski some amazing snow, some routes we had to skin up, such as the Glacier Mort and the uber classic Crochues-Berard Traverse but others we made use of the lifts. Saint Gervais, Combloux touring and tree skiing, 3 days on the Vallee Blanche, Off-piste at Le Tour, steep skiing off Brevent Hotel Face.

If you know where to go, you will be rewarded!

If you know where to go, you will be rewarded!

So back in Scotland for a while now so getting fully embraced into Scottish Winter which will mostly be climbing as well as a two week Ice climbing trip to Norway ice climbing. Yesterday I was out on Swan Song V,6 in the Cairngorms with Louisa and despite being a very windy day, we tucked in avoiding the worst of the gusts. I’m pretty excited as to what the rest of the season brings. Happy climbing everyone and stay safe!

Looking ahead, my Scottish winter is fully booked.

I have availability for Ski Touring and Off Piste skiing between 8th -17th April 2019

I also have availability for Rock Climbing and RIdges between 1st - 24th May 2019

Rock climbing and Ridges availability 4th - 6th June 2019 (Snowdonia based)

Alpine Climbing availability 14th - 17th June 2019 (Chamonix based)

Rock climbing and Ridges 8th - 13th September 2019

For more information and inspiration click on the boxes below or get in touch.